I stopped by a small family-owned taqueria on the south side of Tucson to try the much raved about tripas (they were very good) but it was their refried beans that really caught my attention. They were the best I ever had. I grew up with a Mexican family and we would frequently cook together, these beans were different.
The flavor of this taquerias refried beans were nuttier and creamier than most of refried beans that I have eaten. I knew they must be using something else other than pinto beans. I also found their refried beans easier to digest. Thanks to desert food bloggers and Professor Gary Nabhan’s Native Seeds project, I was able to connect the dots.
The mystery bean behind the best refried beans of my life turned out to be the humble yet mighty tepary.
Stemming from the O'odham word for bean, the tepary are a resilient legume found almost exclusively in the border regions of the Southwestern United States and Northern Mexico. They grow best in regions with sporadic rainfall and are highly drought resistant.
Tepary beans have a flavor and texture that is like a cross between kidneys, lentils, and pintos. They are creamier, easier to digest, and higher in protein than all three. Some locals refer to them as “the creamy beans”.
I thought the creamy texture and nuttiness would make tepary beans a good substitute for lentils in David Lebovitz’s “faux gras” recipe. It is! I am very happy with the results and excited to share this recipe.
If you cannot find tepary beans, a combination of kidneys, lentils, and pintos are delicious too and somewhat close in flavor.
Tepary Bean & Walnut Pâté
Adapted from David Lebovitz’s Faux Gras: Vegetarian Foie Gras
Ingredients:
10 baby bella mushrooms
2+ tbsp olive oil
2+ tbsp unsalted butter
1 medium sized onion
2 cloves of garlic
2 cups cooked red tepary beans*
1 cup walnuts
1 tbsp soy sauce or tamari
1 tsp fresh thyme, minced
1 tsp poultry seasoning
1 tbsp cognac or brandy
Brown sugar, cayenne, kosher salt, and black pepper to taste
*1 heaping cup of dried tepary beans yields me two cups of cooked beans. I think results can vary, so I recommend checking with the farmer you buy the beans from or looking at the back of the package to be sure about the yield once cooked. I soak mine overnight for 8 hours and occasionally up to 12 hours before cooking. I boil them, turn off the heat, and let them sit in the water for an hour. Then, I discard that water, and proceed to cook them in slightly salted water in a slow cooker or on the stove top until tender. This cooking method degasses them. I also like to reserve some of the cooking liquid for blending the pâté.
Directions:
Wipe the mushrooms clean and chop. Mince the garlic and thyme and set it all aside. Chop onions and cook them in olive oil at a medium heat until the onions are brown at the edges and translucent. Stir in a pinch of brown sugar and a pinch of kosher salt and continue to cook. Add butter to the onions, and after it is melted, add the minced garlic and mushrooms. Cook until the mushroom are soft and then add soy sauce or tamari, a pinch of black pepper, thyme, and the poultry seasoning. After incorporated and fragrant, stir in the cognac, stir in the walnuts, and then remove from heat.
Using a food processor, blender, or an immersion blender, blend the cooked beans and mushroom / onion / walnut mixture together, and add soy sauce (or tamari), black pepper, and cayenne to taste. Add in the bean cooking liquid or more olive oil for a smoother texture as needed.